all dispatchesdispatch 001 / paris

i got tired of being everyone's google maps.

i have more than 800 places saved on google maps and, for years, i have been the friend people text before a trip. eventually i got tired of answering the same questions in twelve different group chats. this seemed more efficient.

a childhood travel document photo of natalia, dated 2001
the obsession predates the website. travel document, 2001, age five.

it always starts innocently.

“where should i eat in paris?”

which is sadly not a question i know how to answer with one restaurant.

then it is rome. kyoto. where to stay in marseille. somewhere for oysters in cap ferret. a vintage shop. a bar. a museum. a hotel that is actually worth the room rate.

i have more than 800 places saved on google maps at this point.

most of them have also, at some stage, been sent to another human being.

so i made hoha trips.

the backstory

i suppose this did not come out of nowhere

my family has always been scattered around the world, so traveling was part of my life very early on.

i got used to the idea that places could feel completely different from one another, and that this was exactly the interesting part.

i have never been particularly good at arriving somewhere and doing only the famous things.

i want to know what people eat when nobody is trying to impress a tourist. where they buy things. what building is worth entering just because of the room. where everybody goes on a tuesday night. what is happening one street away from the thing everybody already knows about.

basically, i have always wanted to see how a place behaves when it is not introducing itself.

natalia on safari, an elephant behind her
family scattered around the world has its advantages.

then i spent years working in fashion, where a large part of my job was deciding what made the cut.

looking at too much, choosing very little.

figuring out what deserved space, what was actually new, what was just loud, and what you would still care about once everybody else had moved on.

turns out i never stopped doing that.

i just started doing it with cities too.

a fashion detail from years of working in fashion
years of looking at too much and choosing very little.
natalia in a white dress in front of the parthenon in athens
athens. the columns were doing most of the work.

the editorial rule

only the ones i remember

google already has every restaurant in paris. it can keep them.

i want the ones i remember.

the place i would cross town for.

the hotel where i would actually stay again.

the shop where i bought something i still love.

the restaurant where the room mattered almost as much as the food.

the museum i would give up an afternoon for.

the very specific bar i would send you to because you asked for somewhere that was fun but not that kind of fun.

that is the level of specificity we are dealing with.

three women in traditional andean clothing with a pack animal, film photo
the detour is usually worth it.

the useful part

the hoha list

it is where all of these addresses will finally live together. right now they are scattered between google maps, notes, screenshots and messages i sent somebody three years ago.

you will be able to look by place or by category.

paris restaurants. vintage in tokyo. shoes in rome. design in paris. bars in kyoto. places to stay in marseille.

eventually, something close to you when you are already standing in the city wondering what to do next.

small translucent japanese sweets lifted with chopsticks, tokyo
skiing in japan, past a wooden hut in fresh snow
a shuttered florence shopfront painted with a hand
a pink banquette and a single red rose against brushed-metal walls
natalia in purple on the lungarno in florence

from the hoha list

five addresses, five completely different answers to “where should i go?”

  1. paris / eatle cornichonbest fries in france. i said what i said.
  2. tokyo / drinkmusic bar lionthe club. tiny, loud, you will dance.
  3. cap ferret / eatla cabane du mimbeauoysters, shrimp, pâté and cold white wine. same family since 1860.
  4. rome / shopgonne al vento vintagehallucinatory selection, especially the 80s.
  5. salvador / eatdonanathe best moqueca for me.

the longer texts

and then there are the dispatches

some places only need one sentence.

some need considerably more.

the dispatches are for the second category.

trips, exhibitions, neighborhoods, hotels, design, restaurants, and places i have somehow developed a thesis about.

sometimes useful for years.

sometimes useful until next sunday.

both count.

luggage strapped to a taxi in capri
movement, capri version.

the point

the point, really

hoha trips is me finally putting something i have been doing forever in one place.

traveling since i was young. having family spread across the world. working in jobs where my entire value was supposed to come from having an eye.

and still, after all of that, being properly excited by the possibility that there is always another room, street, meal, shop, building or completely unnecessary detour i have not seen yet.

that part has never really gone away.

thankfully.

for now, i am starting with the places i already have too much to say about.

the bassin at cap ferret
next: cap ferret.
next dispatchcap ferret is better when you stop making plans.read next dispatch