5 places in paris for people who love design.
a restaurant designed by koolhaas, another inside a foundation, a nouvel gallery, a le corbusier house and chanel's craft headquarters. no season required.

design week came and went. these five stay.
every september the city fills up with things to see for exactly one week. this is the opposite list: five addresses i would keep in paris all year, for the architecture, the objects, the craft, or the way the room changes how you look at everything inside it.
two of them are places to eat, on purpose. the design i remember best is usually the kind i got to sit inside for two hours.
the five
le dauphin
131 avenue parmentier, paris 11e

one of my favorite restaurant interiors in paris. le dauphin was designed by rem koolhaas and clément blanchet at oma, the same studio behind fondazione prada in milan. it is also the only restaurant in france designed by rem koolhaas and oma.
the room is basically an obsession with white marble, mirrors and reflection squeezed into a tiny space. it should feel cold. somehow it does not. what i like is that it reads as an architectural idea that happens to serve dinner.
paris 11e·131 avenue parmentier·restaurant
pluto at lafayette anticipations
9 rue du plâtre, paris 4e


if i am already sending you to lafayette anticipations, i am also sending you downstairs. pluto feels like part of the institution, which is rare for a museum restaurant. the space was designed by studio hugo haas with custom wood furniture and frama chairs, and it sits inside the rem koolhaas architecture of the foundation.
i like that the room is considered without becoming precious. you can have lunch, stay for coffee, go upstairs to the exhibition, come back down, meet someone. good design is sometimes just the reason a place lets you behave naturally for longer.
paris 4e·9 rue du plâtre·inside lafayette anticipations
galerie patrick seguin
5 rue des taillandiers, paris 11e



this is where i would send someone who says they love french design but mostly means they can recognize a perriand chair. the 300 square meter gallery was designed by jean nouvel and specializes in jean prouvé, charlotte perriand, pierre jeanneret, jean royère and le corbusier.
go slowly. the useful thing here is learning the difference between recognizing an icon and actually looking at how it was made. the gallery also holds the largest collection of jean prouvé's demountable houses, which makes furniture and architecture feel like parts of the same sentence.
paris 11e·5 rue des taillandiers·mon to sat, 10h to 19h
maison la roche
10 square du docteur blanche, paris 16e

i normally lose interest the second somebody tells me a house is important. maison la roche survives the word. le corbusier and pierre jeanneret designed it between 1923 and 1925 as both a home and a gallery for collector raoul la roche.
the fun part is that color, furniture, light and circulation are all being used to manipulate how you move through the rooms. this is where le corbusier first developed the idea of the promenade architecturale. it is basically an argument about interiors that you have to walk through.
paris 16e·tue to sat, 10h to 18h·online booking required
le19m
2 place skanderbeg, paris 19e

this one is still on my own list, so i am not pretending to report back yet. but it is much more of a chanel project than the name initially suggests. founded by chanel in paris in 2021, le19m brings together 11 maisons d'art and nearly 700 artisans and experts working across the métiers d'art of fashion and decoration.
the history is the part that makes me want to see it. chanel began acquiring specialist ateliers in 1985 to preserve and develop their savoir-faire, and le19m feels like the architectural conclusion of that idea. lesage, montex, lemarié, maison michel, massaro, goossens and the other resident maisons work with chanel and with other fashion and design studios. it is an ecosystem built around the people who make the things fashion eventually turns into an image.
even the name is doing too much, which i approve of. 19 is both the arrondissement and one of gabrielle chanel's favorite numbers. the m stands for mode, mains, métiers d'art and maisons. rudy ricciotti wrapped the building in a concrete façade that reads almost like an enormous vertical textile weave. if architecture is allowed to be literal, this is a fairly convincing case for it.
paris 19e·2 place skanderbeg·open only for the current program
the temporary version
for one week in september, the city added eleven more.
these five are the permanent version. the design week piece covers the rest: exhibitions, studios and private rooms that opened only for that week. it stays up as a record.
going somewhere?
if you would rather outsource the 47 open tabs, i make itineraries to order.
you tell me the city, the dates, how you actually like to travel and what you refuse to waste time on. i edit the hotels, restaurants, shops, museums, neighborhoods and small detours into a trip that makes sense both on a map and once you are there.
the version i would make for a friend.